Page last updated at 10:57 GMT, Tuesday, 3 June 2008 11:57 UK
The capital of Palestinian escapism
"Small or large?" said the Palestinian man behind the counter, in English. Until recently, it turned out, he'd been living in the United States.
"I was in Chicago for seven years," he told me, "but it was getting too dangerous, all the shooting, all the crime. I decided it was much safer to come back home."